Smoke on the Mountain: Jackson Hole Arrival
I flew into Jackson Hole Airport, and honestly? If you’ve never landed in a postcard, now’s your chance. Surrounded by the Tetons, this sleek glass-and-timber terminal felt more like a luxe mountain lodge than an airport. I half expected someone to offer me a lavender oat milk latte upon arrival.
My boyfriend John—chef and occasional cowboy hat model—scooped me up in full western drag. That hat may have been a joke, but the views weren’t. I was already bewitched.
The Teton Tease
We spent our first day in Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone’s often-overlooked sister. But let me tell you: she’s the elegant, mysterious sibling with killer cheekbones. Jagged peaks, mirror lakes, and the kind of air that feels like a reset button for your entire soul.
Our breakfast at the Trapper Grill was rustic and perfect. Picture eggs, mountains, and coffee so strong it could resurrect your inner mountain witch.
Into the Wild: Yellowstone Begins
From the South Entrance, our first stop was the West Thumb Geyser Basin—a steaming shoreline of turquoise pools and ancient breath. Then came Kepler Cascades, which is pretty, but mostly a warm-up for the main show.
And then… Old Faithful. My least favorite part. Picture Times Square but everyone’s wearing REI. Yes, the eruption is cool. No, I didn’t need to spend $68 on souvenirs and huckleberry lip balm—but I did.
Canyons & Campsite Drama
We camped in Custer-Gallatin National Forest (Montana side), where I learned 4 things:
- I can set up a tent better than my man.
- Bathhouses with no running water are character building.
- You haven’t seen stars until you’ve seen them in the woods under Montana Skies.
- Don’t bother asking your man to stay up until you fall asleep so he can protect you, he’ll fall asleep immediately.
Our basecamp was near the quaint, time-warp town of West Yellowstone—adorable to look at, abysmal for food. Sorry to that chef.
Magic & Missteps
We re-entered from the West Entrance and began to see wildlife: bison, elk, and the occasional raven with attitude. (More on that later.)
The hike to Gibbon Falls was stunning and soul-scorching. Yes, I complained the entire uphill. No regrets.
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone was jaw-dropping. It’s not just a name—it’s gold-flecked cliffs, steam, and a thunderous river slicing the world in two.
Lamar Valley Reverie
If Yellowstone has a heartbeat, it pulses in Lamar Valley. We went chasing wolves and found something wilder—peace. Mountain goats greeted us. The silence was its own kind of magic.
At Mammoth Hot Springs, the alien terraces steamed under moonlight. Cooke City gave me vintage Americana charm. And at a random rest stop, we fed a crow a chip and accidentally summoned his entire coven.
One rode the hood of our car like a spectral hitchhiker for miles.
Wolfmother & Wanderlust
On our way out, it happened—a mother wolf and her pups in a meadow like some mythic sign. I cried. (Soft girl moment.)
We returned to Jackson Hole, wandered its bougie western streets, and pretended to be characters from The Last of Us. And when flight delays stranded us for two days, Driggs, Idaho surprised us with beauty, stillness, and skies that held no judgment.
Surviving the Wilderness (As a Trans Woman)
Here’s what I packed and recommend if you’re soft and femme in the wild:
- Cerave Tinted SPF – protects while giving goddess skin.
- Solid fragrance or perfume oil – no spills, all vibes.
- Lip balm with color – glam in a pinch.
- Mineral wipes – because who knows when you’ll find a real shower.
- Mini mirror & tweezers – useful for brows and existential reflection.
- Crystal of choice (mine was labradorite) – protection, magic, grounding.
- Confidence, sarcasm, and BEAR SPRAY – never forget the essentials.
(Affiliate links coming soon) 🖤
Final Spell
Yellowstone didn’t just test my survival skills. It reminded me that beauty isn’t always curated. Sometimes it’s windburned, sleep-deprived, and crying next to a geyser. And still—worthy. Still sacred.
It was a life-changing experience.
May we all find wild places that soften us <3
